
Guide - Onsen
Snow onsen towns: where to ski, soak and stay
Four snow onsen towns ranked by sourced access from Tokyo and what shuts in winter, with bath fees, lift prices and tattoo evidence per town.
Nozawa Onsen is the easiest snow onsen town to plan from Tokyo: about 1 hour 40 minutes by Shinkansen to Iiyama, a 25-minute liner, 13 village baths that cost nothing (a few are villagers-only) and an adult lift day at $50 (¥7,800). Zao comes second, Ginzan third and Kusatsu fourth. Rank 1 means the shortest sourced trip and the fewest winter surprises. Kusatsu ranks last only because no route to it is sourced, although its baths are the best documented.
Dollar figures use about ¥155 to US$1 and are rounded; you pay in yen, so check the rate.
Which snow onsen town is best for a first trip?
Choose Nozawa for the easiest trip, Zao for the snow monsters, Ginzan for a night in a ryokan and Kusatsu for the best-documented baths.
| Rank | Town | From Tokyo | Skiing | Shut or limited in winter |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Nozawa Onsen (Nagano) | Shinkansen to Iiyama about 1 h 40, liner 25 min, $4 (¥600) | Yes, adult day $50 (¥7,800) | Akiba-no-yu suspended; Ogama, Asakama villagers only |
| 2 | Zao Onsen (Yamagata) | Shinkansen to Yamagata about 2 h 20 to 2 h 30, bus 35 to 45 min, $8 (¥1,200) | Yes, adult day about $52 (¥8,000), unconfirmed | Dairotenburo closed late Nov to April; ropeway can stop in wind |
| 3 | Ginzan Onsen (Yamagata) | Oishida Station, then a local bus; times not sourced | None found | Day visitors limited; 2026-27 rules still a draft |
| 4 | Kusatsu Onsen (Gunma) | Not found | Not found | Sai-no-kawara has no closing days; shorter winter hours |
Ginzan ranks above Kusatsu because a route station is sourced. Rules and manners are in the Onsen hub, and Best onsen in Japan, compared covers towns outside the snow belt.
1. Nozawa Onsen: the easiest to plan
Nozawa is a ski village with 13 public baths that cost nothing to enter, though not all admit visitors. A donation to the village bath association is requested. The baths are villager-managed. One local guide puts tub temperatures at 40 to 55 °C, so test before you climb in. From December to March most open 6:00 to 23:00, and a few close an hour earlier. Bring your own soap and towel. The Ogama cooking spring and Asakama no Yu are for villagers only, and one guide says Taki no Yu may be limited to guests staying in the village. Read bath etiquette before your first tub.
The Nozawa Onsen Snow Resort runs regular prices from 19 Dec 2026 to 28 Mar 2027. A night ticket is $18 (¥2,850). Night skiing runs 26 Dec to 2 Jan and on Saturdays from 9 Jan to 20 Mar, plus Sunday 10 Jan and Sunday 21 Mar. The first lift day is not published, so check the resort page. Nozawa is on neither Ikon nor Epic. The full plan is in the Nozawa Onsen guide.
On 15 January the Dosojin fire festival is open to residents and guests staying in the village, according to a local English page (secondary). That is one reason to sleep in the village rather than commute.
2. Zao Onsen: snow monsters, and a big bath that is shut
Zao has three communal baths, Shimoyu, Kawarayu and Kamiyu. Each costs $1 (¥200) for an adult, opens 6:00 to 22:00 and has an unmanned fee box. Soap is banned, there are no lockers, and you remove metal accessories. There is no shower, so wash with the tub provided. The water is strongly acidic, so leave silver in your room.
Closed in winter Zao Dairotenburo, the big outdoor bath at $5 (¥850) for adults, closes from late November to April. The three communal baths stay open.
The ropeway, $28 (¥4,400) return, can stop in strong wind, and the Okama crater section of the bus route is closed in winter. To get there, take the Shinkansen to Yamagata, about 2 hours 20 to 2 hours 30 and around $73 (¥11,250) one way on commercial ticket pages. A bus to the village takes 35 to 45 minutes. Zao’s own 2026-27 lift price page is not confirmed. A price database lists an adult day at about $52 (¥8,000) regular and $58 (¥9,000) peak; last known (2024-25), the peak day was $48 (¥7,500). Check the Zao Onsen Ski Resort page before you plan; the season dates are unclear right now. Ikon covers 7 days. See the Zao guide.
3. Ginzan Onsen in winter: plan it as an overnight
Plan Ginzan as an overnight, because winter day visits are limited. The wooden ryokan street is car-free, so you park outside it.
Closed in winter Day visitors are limited, and the official 2026-27 page is a draft. Confirm the final rules with the Ginzan Onsen visitor information office (0237-28-3933) before you go.
The draft plans park-and-ride at the Taisho Roman-kan car park from December 2026 to early March 2027, with a reserved shuttle at $6 to $10 (¥1,000 to ¥1,500) by time band, and no walking in. Same-day slots are expected to be very few, and the draft says conditions are the same as last year. Last known rules, winter 2025 to 2026: shuttle every 20 minutes (about 10 minutes, about $3 to $6 (¥500 to ¥1,000) return), evening day visitors capped at 100 per hour by ticket, overnight guests only after 20:00, and a priority pass sold from late December to early March. The 2026-27 rules are unclear right now.
The Ooyu public bath is $2 (¥300), 8:00 to 20:00, free for children 12 and under and for staying guests. Shirogane-yu is the other public bath, and sources disagree on its hours: one says 8:30 to 16:00 and closed Wednesday, another 8:00 to 17:00 and closed Monday and Wednesday. Call the office. If you can stay the night, a ryokan removes most of the problem; see the ryokan guide.
4. Kusatsu Onsen in winter: best baths on paper
Kusatsu has the best-documented baths of the four, and its three paid baths all stay open through winter.
- Sai-no-kawara Rotenburo: $5 (¥800), 9:00 to 20:00 from December to March, last entry 19:30, no closing days. On Friday evenings it runs mixed bathing where swimwear or a towel is allowed.
- Gozanoyu: $6 (¥900), 8:00 to 21:00 in winter, last entry 20:30.
- Ohtakinoyu: about $8 (¥1,200), 9:00 to 21:00, last entry 20:00. One guide says $7 (¥1,100). It has private baths; the price is not found.
One guide lists three free baths open to visitors: Shirohata-no-yu, Jizo-no-yu and Chiyo-no-yu. Most small community baths are for locals, and sources disagree on how many free baths admit visitors. The water is strongly acidic and sulfurous, so take off jewellery.
What do these towns say about tattoos?
Only Kusatsu states a position. Each row reports only what the official page says.
| Town | Official page |
|---|---|
| Kusatsu | The Gozanoyu FAQ says no specific refusal of people with tattoos in its three baths, including foreign visitors. |
| Nozawa village baths | No tattoo restriction published on its official page. |
| Zao baths | No tattoo restriction published for the communal baths or Dairotenburo. |
| Ginzan public baths | No tattoo restriction published on its official page. |
Absence of a published rule is not permission. Policy can change, staff decide on the day, and a private bath or a cover is the fallback. Private bath prices in these four towns are mostly not published. The tattoo rules and workarounds are in the tattoo guide, and the booking side is in private baths.
Quick answers
Can I visit a snow onsen town without staying overnight?
Nozawa and Zao, yes: their village baths are public and cost nothing or $1 (¥200). Ginzan limits day visitors in winter, and its 2026-27 rules are not final. At Kusatsu, three baths take paying visitors. Check each town's official page first.
Are Nozawa's village baths really free?
Yes, with limits. Most of the village's public baths admit visitors, free, with a donation to the village bath association requested. They are villager-managed, so bring your own towel and soap. The Ogama cooking spring and Asakama no Yu are for villagers only, and one guide says Taki no Yu may be limited to guests staying in the village. The Akiba-no-yu bath was reported suspended in 2026.
Which snow onsen town allows tattoos?
Only Kusatsu has an official statement, and it says only that the Gozanoyu FAQ has no specific refusal of people with tattoos in its three baths. For Nozawa, Zao and Ginzan the official pages publish no tattoo restriction. That is not permission: ask first.
Is the big Zao outdoor bath open in ski season?
No. Zao Dairotenburo is closed from late November to April. The three communal baths in the village, at $1 (¥200) each, stay open.

